The CPO inspection is completely up to the dealer and technician. Some will legit go through the checklist; others half ass. Use your trusted mechanic and walk through the vehicle together; and best if he can lift it so you can check underneath.
Two kinds:
spirited driving on the PCH.
cruising five miles over the speed limit, 1000-2000 rpm. Ultra smooth.
Yeah. Lots of cars are like this. It’s not good, of course, but there are many opportunities to break your car. Same reason lots of old cars have manual hand brakes, and you can use it to initiate a slide.
You should still apply the brake and make sure you’re 0 mph before shifting. I’ve seen a guy do that where he shifts from reverse to drive while moving and it jolts the car. It destroys the transmission so don’t do it.
They’re cool cars, but really the super smooth ride legacy of Toyota/Lexus is already copied by the ES, LS. Those are more practical for availability and parts.
I’d get one if I had the money to import parts and used it as a novelty. Otherwise it’s not practical.
If it’s that old and reliable, the insurance is likely cheap after decades of depreciation. Downgrade the mileage to less than 10k miles annually to make the premium cheaper, then buy another vehicle.
Nice catch. That’s a bad idea.
Da Kine
One EV can power 12 Toyota hybrids, and the latter is cheaper with longer range and easy infrastructure due to all the gas stations everywhere. You can charge when you can, but don’t have to. Their hybrids sell really well, and they already dumped billions in R&D, so makes sense they’re not going to abandon it.
This will be the continuing problem. Big battery EVs will be here, RSN (Real Soon Now). Always a moving target due to high expense, limits in lithium mining, lack of infrastructure, and the use of carbon fuel sources to generate electricity anyway. It only really makes sense for the small number of people who go all the way with solar and wind on their property, and battery packs in their garage for storage.
Toyotas rust a lot. Japan doesn’t deal with it so it’s a foreign concept to apply coating to their undersides.
Four bangers and six bangers. Come on, bro.
Their rental cash was dangerously low, so they needed you to help pay it. The problem is their overhead will always entice them to lie. Which is why an honest mechanic is worth his weight in gold.
The Car Care Nut schedule seems the most sensible. Replace engine oil every 5000 miles. Change transfer case and rear differential gear oil every 30,000 miles. Replace the transmission “drain and fill” every 60,000 miles with WS ATF. The filter never really clogs unless you never change the tranny fluid. I personally will be changing 30,000 miles just to be a little cleaner. Note you should do flushes, or drain and fill every 10,000 miles, as you need some debris to help with gears engaging. Too often and the transmission can slip.
Ignore the dealer as they’ll change whatever they think can extract money from you. And they’ll follow garbage advice like lifetime fluid, or go the other way and recommend flushes or cleaning out sludge or carbon build up.
This is a very, very important note: flushes aren’t necessary if you change the fluids like you’re supposed to. There shouldn’t be gunk waiting to build up in the first place.