Probably not, if it catches in the window assembly it’ll just rip it up. It may clog the drains in the door once it falls to the bottom, but you can just clean those out, shouldn’t really be an issue.

Well what car is it? If you’re lucky it may have automatically shut itself down when it saw it didn’t have oil pressure, saving itself. If it doesn’t have this function, then the engine probably siezed and is done for.

Yes it’s a nylon washer, totally legit. I have one on my vehicle right now, it is not leaking. I’ve found they can actually be tougher than metal crush washers, require a little bit more force. When tightening I like to tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, the drain bolt to really crush and seat that washer, same with brake crush washers.

Sure you can try, but the damage is done, you likely completely destroyed that motor. This is like running a car engine with zero oil in the crankcase, running it till it locked up, then freeing it, then running it till it locks up again. It’s destroyed, needs a rebuild, even that may not be possible, this kind of damage usually ruins more than a rebuild can fix.

Well to put it simply, it’s not damaging at all. Doesn’t harm a single damn thing.

lol, you have no idea what your talking about.

Nah, that’s a shop vac filter.

So why did you replace the alternator in the first place? Sounds like your battery has been the problem the whole time. If your alternator was the issue you wouldn’t be able to keep driving after a jumpstart. Definitely wouldn’t have made it 3 weeks of jump starting to get it going everyday unless you charged the battery constantly.

I hope you mean 6 quarts, not 6 gallons. And yes, you need to get the oil changed again if you want the car to last.

Both. All battery terminal corrosion is from a leaking battery terminal or acid somehow making its way onto that connection, it is NOT caused by the electricity or anything like that, it is 100% of the time acid touching the metal and causing a reaction.

It is very hard, pretty much impossible to bond lead to plastic, most batteries are manufactured with an o ring embedded in the plastic to seal against the lead terminal. This often doesn’t help, acid wicks up and out.

Best thing to do is start off with disconnecting and cleaning the corrosion off of the terminals, install those felt anti corrosion disks, they soak up and neutralize the acid under the terminal where it’s coming from before it wicks up into the connection, protecting it, then spray it all down with battery terminal protectant, you’ll never have a corrosion problem after this.

It’s pretty easy to test your clutch for slippage (it being burnt out). Get on the highway in your highest gear, then just floor it. If the rpm’s shoot up, without speed increasing at the same rate, your clutch is slipping. If you floor it and the rpm’s stay low and slowly incrementally increase with speed, then your clutch is grabbing fine and it’s not an issue.

That doesn’t sound like a bad battery. Best way to “revive” a bad car battery is to charge it. Leave it on the charger for a week, if it’s still not good, it’s bad. The only way a lead acid battery might be able to be revived is if it’s sulfated, overcharging, or leaving the battery on a new charger that will trickle charge the battery will usually break this sulfation up, but it takes time, usually a week. If it doesn’t improve after a week, it’s not sulfation, it’s something else like broken plates, a dried out or shorted cell, something that can’t be fixed and the battery is bad.

Most car batteries don’t come back after they’ve failed, I’d personally just throw in the cheapest battery you can buy, like a $50 Walmart special, and just know it’ll need to be replaced every couple of years.

Yes. You aren’t supposed to be able to get in there. Your supposed to toss the carb, and buy a new one from the dealership. This is so you can’t get inside and adjust anything to mess with emissions.

However you can remove those fasteners, you’ll have to cut a slot in them with a Dremel ideally and use a flat head to remove.

Does this alternator belt also spin the water pump? If so don’t even think about it, can’t drive a car with a water pump that doesn’t pump. It will immediately overheat and blow up.

But if this belt only runs the alternator from the crank, then yes this would work.

If it was warm, yes definitely. Every hot/warm oil change I’ve ever done, there’s foam. Draining it ice cold, usually no bubbles at all, no foam.