I’m sort of with you but why not do it for all cars?

In GA its $211 and one of the highest in the nation. I’m actually fine with the flat fee, they just need to do it for all cars and not just EV. Now would be the perfect time since we haven’t collected gas taxes for the 2nd year now.

This is for sure a big part of it. They should have made it $4k on any used EV over some number of years old and set the income limit to the same as the new EV.

No one cares about EPA range. Anyone know what the 70mph range is?

I’ve not heard on this sub any reports of anyone successfully getting the used credit. I’m sure someone has but they are keeping it to themselves. You have to find an EV that qualifies and then you have to be in a very tight income range. Those are two targets that are hard to hit.

When they build Mexican factories, they will have to pay the same rates as any manufacture in Mexico. They don’t have some magic to saving money, they have cheap government funded inputs and low labor costs. American companies are more than capable of competing with them.

The total cost of the battery in most EVs is in the $7k to $8k range. That’s $1600 the first year, $1300 the second year and $1000 the 3rd year best case even if your numbers turn out to be true. Even with that best case and assuming labor and other materials hold the same cost year-over-year, inflation of 3% on a $40k EV will hold the price the same.

Never before have cars gotten cheaper over time. It’s only happening now because we had 30%+ inflation and 200%+ inflation on specific inputs on cars. As those inputs have come down, so have prices to some degree. Tesla was printing money and decided to merely make a lot of money so they can support the volume increases they already had in the pipeline. Don’t expect them to keep getting over their skis on production going forward and I’m sure they fully intend to return to printing money as soon as they can.

What car controls the volume from the screen? I feel like these arguments are just made up to justify people’s idea of what they think the car does rather than real issues with a specific car.

Never tried “go home” but for sure “navigate home” works which is what I tried first and have always used.

In a Tesla or other car? My Audi voice control is useless but the Tesla one works every time.

Tesla has said they are aiming for sub $1000 cost for their motors. Not saying they are there yet but it’s a good benchmark of roughly what they cost.

Engines are complex large expensive components so putting to of them in a car would be about the worst thing ever. Electric motors are small simple and cheap. You can hold a 500hp electric motor in your hands and all you need to make it run is plug in a wire and maybe some low pressure cooling pipes. Some EVs have 3 or even 4 of them and there is little downsides to doing this. To make the car AWD you would have to at least have a tunnel and jump inside the car for a drive shaft which is terrible.

Impossible, they are a loud 10%.

Linking to a troll site to back up your claim is classic. The article you linked to is about Tesla not having maintenance done before going to inspections so 14% of them fail which has nothing to do with reliability.

80% of households just need a 120v outlet for a single EV. Still you have to decide if you are in the 20%. If you drive more than 60 miles per day or are looking to get a particularly large or inefficient EV you would be for sure. If you randomly drive more than 60 and you have no public charging near you you might be.

Almost zero chance NEVI stations wil solve this. The first v4 Tesla stations have had oil through stalls but that doesn’t mean all will. I’ve not heard anyone at Tesla commit to it.

I want to know your times to each 10% soc starting with 10% but that is a lot to ask

This article was very difficult to read. How are EVs going to go from producing 1m units in 2023 to 7m+ in 2026? Best I could tell is it’s based on “some graph” that was shown to them but not us?

I feel like I’m one of the lone supporters of L1 on this sub but I can’t get to the place where I suggest someone with an EV that gets under 2.5kWh/mile to try and live off L1 unless they know they driver very few miles per year and have good DCFC charging nearby. I’ve had an e-Tron for a month with 110V SHARED between it and an i3 and have been fine but asking others to do that is a bit far for me.

It’s hard to buy a car full stop. It’s a big purchase decision and there is a lot of choice and that seat that felt fine on the test drive is a pain on a long trip. The hardest part of buying an EV is you have all that AND you have to REALLY consider the drive train because they are NOT a commodity.

Around town ALL EVs are awesome and the drive trains are non-issues. As soon as you start talking about road trips though, you have to start doing multi-variable calculus.

• How long are your road trip legs? - Do you drive 400 miles and get a hotel and then drive another 400 the next day or do you drive 800 mile legs in one go for 12+ hours?
• What type of driver are you? Are you fine with a drive that you could do in a gas car in 7 hours taking 9 hours or is 8 fine or do you need something that can do it in 7.5 hours?
• How much are you willing to trade rough road experiences now for the car you like better knowing that in 1-2 years when the car gets NACS it will be fine?
• Are you willing to wait 3-4 years for the 800V EVs to have good charger experiences?

Tesla is the only brand you don’t have to worry about today. VW, Audi and Porsche are still unknowns as they haven’t signed up for Tesla SuperCharger network yet. All the other brands you have to decide what type of driver you are and how good the car you like is at charging. If you need good charging, figuring out which cars charge well is very complex in itself.