I always use sta-bil when I’m storing any gas engine. Follow the instructions on the bottle. It’s basically fuel fresh and helps with the gas breaking down. You’ll want to fill the tank near full to prevent moisture from accumulating in the tank. Make sure tire pressure is at max. Battery maintainer is a must
I always use sta-bil when I’m storing any gas engine. Follow the instructions on the bottle. It’s basically fuel fresh and helps with the gas breaking down. You’ll want to fill the tank near full to prevent moisture from accumulating in the tank. Make sure tire pressure is at max. Battery maintainer is a must
Send it bro
Do a second oil change. Filter and all. Use a cheap one (and I wouldn’t waste the money on synthetic) Run for 15 mins or so. Drain oil. Check. Still grey? One more oil change.
It’s likely just the old oil sitting in the engine that didn’t drain out completely. 1 or 2 more oil changes and it’ll likely be a nice gold colour again
Important, as others have said.
My caliper bolts are to be torqued to 135 ft/lbs on the front. If I just used a ratchet and went “good enough” chances are pretty good they would eventually vibrate loose and my entire bracket would end up in my rims or somewhere else causing a lot of damage.
Could I use a break bar and just uga dugga them tight? Ya probably and they would probably be ok for a long time to. Do I want to risk one of the most critical safety aspects of my truck being the brakes? No , no I do not.
Lug nuts are another one. You don’t wanna over tighten those to the point you stretch and break the studs, having catastrophic failure and your wheel coming off on the highway (interstate). Some lugs call for 70ft lbs, some like my truck call for 130ft lbs.
Will it always lead to failure? No probably not. Do you want to risk your (and your friends/loved ones lives?) I’m going to take a guess and say no, probably not.
Tl/DR: invest in a torque wrench and use it. 20ft lbs isn’t much and can be over torqued. 130+ ft lbs is pretty heavy torquing and you’ll never “feel” it out
I’d imagine they’d break free. My Ram 1500’s looked like that and with a breaker bar I was able to get them off.
Another thing you could do if they are super rust locked is hit it with pb blaster a couple times and let it really soak in, then use an battery/ air impact on it. The threads are likely perfectly fine it’s just the head that’s locked.
I believe yours are torqued to 139 ft/lbs so they are on there tight.
Everyone’s already said it. These do nothing to stop anyone. Tire shops don’t wanna “ruin” them on you and a lot of times refuse to work on them.
Imagine you blew a tire and are stuck trying to put your spare one and can’t find this lock… your paying a massive tow bill now.
Just take the 4 of them off and replace as others have said. If someone wants your OEM rims they are gunna get them I promise this one shitty wheel lock is not stopping them
If you’ve never rebuilt a caliper before I’d suggest you buy a new one. There’s usually a core charge so keep this one and bring it back when you are done
There’s a reason those can be referred to as suicide jacks…
If you’re ever going on, use a real floor jack. This happens with those scissor jacks all the time