Blower and resistor. Not fun in these. Both are on opposite ends of the dash. You’ll have to bring this to somewhere. Most likely in the 700-1k range parts and labor.

They don’t do much. Maybe major manufacturer defect but you’re not going to get new tires because of it. They are mostly s meaningless number. Also rarely ever worth the hassle

Can’t control when the parts show up, it’s gotta go from the supplier, to a truck, to the parts store, and then to us. Shit happens.

Save your back. Pay the money at a shop. Peace of mind. Maybe get an oil change and a washer fluid top up while you’re at it.

Or busy your balls swinging a hammer at the back of every wheel. Struggle to get it mounted flush because of the corrosion on the centering hub, then don’t torque your wheels correctly and watch it fly off down the the road.

What you can get parts for at A parts store or online is typically not what shops use. We tend to go OE or with a reputable aftermarket brand. Like import direct, precision, etc.

When they sit and the trucks off the converter and everything else drains back into the pan. If you start evacuating fluid as soon as it’s off you don’t see any overflow really. As you start to fill, once you got the pans capacity met, the fluid is not being sucked up by the transmission pump and starts to overflow.

Most likely your fine, though these do have leadframe issues. Just did one today.

I mean a small EVAP leak on a ford is typically the cap less filler neck. They supply a special funnel to clean these out. Could very well be the purge valve.

As a side note if you take it to a reputable shop and ask for a diagnosis and not a parts change, we typically run service bay tests and can monitor the vacuum, how much it pulls, how it holds, etc, to verify the repair/problem. If you come in with a part and say replace this, that’s all I ever do. I don’t verify anything. Just install the customer part. (And it’s not to be a jerk, we just don’t flag if we don’t diagnose so there’s no reason to take the extra steps and verify or diagnose. Just slap a part and clear a code.)

Bad diode causes a ripple issue, you can check this with a meter. Alternator will charge fine, but basically the diode is allowing a draw to happen because it’s allowing the voltage to flow the opposite direction when off. Wouldn’t recommend driving it with a bad alternator as who knows what it could do next, but theoretically he could. If you’d like to verify with a meter if it is a bad diode there’s some videos out there explaining this. Also those alternators are not super fun to replace.

Subaru?