I would guess a few things. Could be wrong viscosity oil, could be something left disconnected in the induction system while checking the air filter, though this would set a code and CEL. They may have set your tire pressures too low as well.

In the future if the person doesn’t understand something as basic as high mileage oil, take your car somewhere else. They don’t have the knowledge to be qualified to be dealing with cars if they don’t know what high mileage oil is.

That’s what this is. Most pads are painted on every surface but the friction surface, some even have overspray there but it’s NBD. The paint is just burning off from normal brake heat.

Sounds like a loose or broken trailing arm.

Walmart barely has the technology to remove and install tires, they definitely don’t have the tech needed to alter mileage.

3mm is probably too thin to stay hub centric unless you are already using a hub ring. In that case you will probably have to get a set custom made to your specs.

Without the dowels the head gasket may be misaligned and can shift over time. It’s even more critical if you have an overhead cam engine with guides that bolt to both the head and block. If those holes are misaligned it can put them in a bind and cause them to fail.

I still have two in use here. It’s not as snappy as the newest 4K, but it’s still a solid unit.

It has to be programmed to the car, then have the keys programmed. Call a dealer and see if they will program it for you, some won’t do it unless they sell you the module and in the case of a security device they may ask for proof of ownership.

Next would be to verify the injector is firing properly and that you have good compression.

Try giving it a more detailed name like Master Bedroom.

A brake job doesn’t take very long if everything goes smoothly. Keep in mind that just because you left the car early doesn’t mean they will start on it right away, and once it’s in the bay they may be at the mercy of parts availability. They may work on other cars while they wait for parts, or while waiting to hear back from a customer. All you can do is give them a call asking for a ETA.

The way I understand it is they act as a wear indicator of sorts. As the bushings inside the joint wear, the buttons move into the housing more. The shop should still verify there is play in the joint before replacement and not just rely on the buttons.

I am also a long time user and can’t imagine switching to anything else.

Sounds like a low voltage issue.

I thought the blower was in the other side of the case. Either way it blows big donkey balls for sure.

Run. Run far far away from it.

Looks like Klingon.

If the shop didn’t diagnose the problem why would you expect them to stand by the repair fixing your issue? They should still offer a warranty on parts and labor if they supply the part, but they aren’t liable if it doesn’t fix a problem someone else diagnosed.