The last two Hondas I worked on where push on style hoses like this with no clamps because they were low pressure systems.

Both had pressure caps and I was asked specifically which year when at the parts counter because they apparently changed them between model years for the refresh.

The spring and cap are heat/pressure(usually pressure) activated, meaning that as pressure/heat increases the spring in there will coil upwards and open itself slightly for excess water from pressure and allows for that water to come out and into an expansion tank.

There are certain vehicles literally equipped with stronger/stiffer springs in them to handle different amounts of pressure; usually 13psi is the usual but sometimes they are rated upwards of 18psi, each manufacturer is different.

I’m sorry you have ZERO clue how these systems operate, don’t come in here giving bad information especially when it’s a well known item in modern cooling systems since about the 80s and you could have simply googled it if you were unsure.

Ok dude! 👍🏼

It can be if it’s a hot day and the cap has opened up the expansion plug for extended amount of time.

Meh, they can try the tap and screw method, but these radiators (even OEM) are cheap as hell.

Unfortunately yes. Once those little ports break then it’s nearly impossible to heat or epoxy weld them back on due to the pressure they are under.

Good news is this looks like a Honda/Acura and aftermarket radiators are relatively cheap and easy to replace!

There is no way to really fix that easily. Most likely this either has a cardboard backing or a hardened foam; you’ve indented the backing and most likely not able push it back out unless you drop the ceiling back and even then might not fix it fully.

The majority of rotors have the main threshold for rotor width stamped on the front hat of the rotor; measure accordingly to see if they are bad.

If only these were some type of pictorial representation of what was going on with the vehicle….I guess we’ll never know… 🙄

Pull the codes dude, most likely DPF is clogged since that’s a diesel light and a glo-plug light.

Ensure its the correct blue or green coolant needed for BMWs. A pre mix is fine, but it needs to be the blue if it’s blue or the green if it’s green.

Recently bmw has switched some vehicles in the 2018+ range to HT-12 which is green and you’ll need to simply open the cap and check which color and you’ll know.

It will most likely be blue, but owners manual should also tell you which one. And no, no draining is needed but coolant systems are closed loop systems….they usually shouldn’t leak, especially a newer 2021 model.

It’s under warranty and I’d take it in for a free inspection and have them look it over. You could be leaking from something and you’re not aware.

Tires have a manufacturer date and they do have a window for how long they last; what is the date on them?

Furthermore, winter tires are even worse then summer compound because as they harden they become exponentially worse for gripping in snowy conditions.

More info is needed.

It’s compromised; replace asap.

Schrader valve.

You are correct, it goes into the valve stem and is the gateway for a fluid to pass through.