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Unfortunately yes. Once those little ports break then it’s nearly impossible to heat or epoxy weld them back on due to the pressure they are under.
Good news is this looks like a Honda/Acura and aftermarket radiators are relatively cheap and easy to replace!
This guy has no idea what he’s talking about.
This is a very simple repair involving a tap, a nipple adapter, and some jb weld.
These ports are NOT under high pressure at all, they lead to coolant overflow tanks, which are not pressurized in the slightest.
The spring and cap are heat/pressure(usually pressure) activated, meaning that as pressure/heat increases the spring in there will coil upwards and open itself slightly for excess water from pressure and allows for that water to come out and into an expansion tank.
There are certain vehicles literally equipped with stronger/stiffer springs in them to handle different amounts of pressure; usually 13psi is the usual but sometimes they are rated upwards of 18psi, each manufacturer is different.
I’m sorry you have ZERO clue how these systems operate, don’t come in here giving bad information especially when it’s a well known item in modern cooling systems since about the 80s and you could have simply googled it if you were unsure.
This nipple is after the spring and cap, the other end of this hose it drains into unpressurised expansion tank that is open to the air. How any pressure can build in it? Doesn’t absence of any clamp on the hose gives any clue?
I’m a mechanic and have been one for 15 years. As someone else said there’s no clamp on the hose. That should give you a clue.
Yes, SOME cars are different, especially newer ones that self burp air out of the system. But 90% of vehicles, do not have pressurized overflow lines.
The springs in radiator caps are there TO allow air and coolant to escape to the overflow tanks when the rest of the system is pressurized.
The last two Hondas I worked on where push on style hoses like this with no clamps because they were low pressure systems.
Both had pressure caps and I was asked specifically which year when at the parts counter because they apparently changed them between model years for the refresh.
Drill a hole in both pieces, slide a thin metal pipe coated with epoxy in the rad and the slide the nipple part back on it ! Fixed a lot of those like this and never failed again, actually stronger …
Can’t you just drill and tap a hole and then run a nipple with some Teflon tape into it?
No harm in trying, it’s already junk if it doesn’t work
My first thought.
With a bit of epoxy and threading, you’d definitely be able to give yourself a few weeks to procure an alternative.
That’s basically it. It puts the vehicle at risk, but even if the fix “works” it’s only going to work temporarily.
Worth a shot IMO
You can and it will probably work for awhile but unless you are extremely observant its going to eventually crack and leak. If the engine overheats it can cost a lot more than what the radiator costs to replace.
Basically max effort and being constantly worried when its gonna fail next. Or just suffer the $150 bucks and 45min job it costs to swap it out and its probably gonna outlast the car.
I just saw a guy do this on tiktok and looked like it worked well haven’t done it myself tho. He tapped new threads in there, put a brass fitting in with a ton of pipe dope and it sealed up great.
Drilling to size and sleeving with brake line or any small metal tube and epoxy works best in my experience.
Use jb weld rather than the tape and it will be better
I’ve seen others do this. It’s worth a try, if it doesn’t work, you were still out a radiator anyway.
Would definitely be worth trying.
It can’t make it worse if you tap and get a nipple to work it could at least bye some time if not your radiator was already done for so no loss.
This will probably work for a while, at least until you get the replacement ready for install.
No. Get a new one is pretty much the only option that fixes the issue. Gluing and epoxy could work in rare cases…but to even do that correctly, you should remove the radiator and do it on a bench and that is a crapshoot as the radiator tank do get pretty crispy due to age, heat expansion and cold contraction over time. These radiators are pretty cheap so why would you invest in removing it without replacing it.
I did this once. It held for about 6 months, then the radiator cracked. I kinda figured it would since it was already brittle enough to break in the first place. But it gave me time to save up for a new radiator, so it was an overall win.
i would tap a brass barb in there and seal it with some resen.
wtf are u smoking, my dad could fix that any day
This is for the coolant overflow. It isn’t under any pressure.
Is the reservoir hose/fitting under much pressure?
It can be if it’s a hot day and the cap has opened up the expansion plug for extended amount of time.
Meh, they can try the tap and screw method, but these radiators (even OEM) are cheap as hell.
Where’s the pressure? It’s an overflow hose. You realise older cars just dumped this hose to the ground right?
Op could literally run his car as it is, broken like that so long as they check their coolant levels regularly.
I’m guessing you’re assuming this hose goes to a pressure reservoir? The water trickles through the hose at best.
Ok dude! 👍🏼
What pressure?
Could also get a threaded nipple and a cheap tap set. Put some JB weld on it for good measure afterwards. But definitely better to replace it if they don’t have experience with threading or need it for long trips
There’s no pressure there it’s just a return to the coolant overflow reservoir.
This is an overflow line. It’s not under particularly high pressure. A bodge may be possible
I’d thread it, stick a brass barbed fitting in there, and send it
Like this man said. Or I have been able to use a plastic assortment like the one below, it should have something that will get you by temporarily
This is a real mechanics response, hell yeah done more than one. I would never replace a radiator for such, easy fix.
But how long will it last ?
please explain how??
Just JB weld it back on, it’s only a coolant overflow.
Anybody who tells you different doesn’t know what they’re doing.
If it was me I’d put a sleeve inside and join the broken pieces together with epoxy or something similar, then just epoxy or JB weld the crack.
It’s not under any pressure, it’s simply a coolant overflow, You could leave it as it is now and it would operate fine if you kept your coolant levels up. EPA might not be happy about the coolant you’re dumping on the road though.
Honestly if it was my vehicle ( and yea I’m a mechanic) I would patch it up until such time as I needed a radiator, which could be years.
Just so you know vehicles used to just run this hose to the ground,
It’s definitely under pressure i had the same issue and when it bust it started pouring steam out
It’s not under pressure. Sounds like your car overheated.
Use a piece of brake line that fits in the hole with a bit of epoxy on that. It will both seal and reinforce the broken piece. Or just go the old school route and just send it, though this radiator doesnt have the upper tank volume with that in mind.
Exactly just glue a metal pipe in, use a drill to make sure you didn’t block off the pipe once the glue has set then glue the broken piece back on over the pipe. Use it until the radiator cracks or you have money to buy a new radiator
Does an inner sleeve restrict flow too much, overlow or not? Finding an exact tight tube that’s thin would be too much of a time waste.
Spend 5 hours of your time and $50 to buy all the tools and fittings to do the job.
OR…spend $100 bucks on a new radiator from the auto parts store. Drain the coolant. Replace the radiator. Refill the coolant and be done in an hour or so.
Right and imagine if he still went this route and the repair didn’t take. May have learned a new skill but all for the same outcome as just replacing plus 50 losts dollars.
5 hours!!?? wtf! 🤣🤣 15 mins bro she’s good. You guys crack me up! Tools can be rented, tools can be purchased and returned in a real pinch. Like others have also said.
Clean it, drill it, thread it, small amount of black rtv silicone around the brass fitting, tighten, clean hose of broken nipple, place hose on brass and if you really want to make sure it’s sealed let sit overnight or at least a few hours.
I have successfully done this job too many times and some not even threaded a hole. I could make a damn BIC ink pen work for the fix. Hell a BIC ink pen and BIC lighter she’s ready to roll!!
Oh yeah all this done under and hour. In my garage sitting here 15 mins then wait for silicone to dry.
How many other ways you need to fix it? I don’t suspect you could successfully pull off this fix especially not replace the radiator. Not all of us have money laying around.
He’s like “NO” lol
I’d do this also… and budget for a replacement
Like u/DukeOfAlexandria said, once the plastic is brittle enough to break like that, you most likely have to replace it. Even if you could cut that nipple out, and epoxy it back on, it’s likely to just snap or crumble when you try and get the hose back on. Odds are the whole nipple is just going to crumble to dust trying to get it out of the hose…
If the radiator is degraded, hoses are likely bad/need to be replaced. If there’s a plastic thermostat housing, etc., assuming those pieces are degraded as well. If you have to replace the thermostat, assume the housing is bad so you have the parts for it.
This. It’ll suck, but ultimately repairing it will be a win in the long term.
Good time to invest on a Good aluminum one
I feel like unless you get like a Mishimoto or something, they’re all plastic at the nipples and connectors? I can’t find an average “aluminum” product that’s actually entirely aluminum.🤷🏻♂️
Mishimoto
There’s also Koyo, ARC, Griffin and a handful of other all-aluminum radiators out there. Since the plastic bits are the first thing to fail 90% of the time, you can get a lot more bang for your buck with one of those.
Crazy glue that shit…jk you’re screwed
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8fj5dtb/ this is exactly what you need!
Use a thread tap on it. Get a hose fitting with threads on one end cover the threads in thread sealer. Spin your fitting in and jam the line on and throw a gear clamp on just to make sure it don’t go anywhere
a tap, a nylon barbed fitting and JB WEILD. if you cant figure out the rest, or you have no delicate finesse a whole radiator it is.
depends how big is your engine, smaller ones should be ok and don’t run at high rpm’s
Check your local junk yard like pull your part or pick a part it’s cheaper but make sure its the right one and isn’t complete shit
Radiators are CHEAP.
Engine damage caused by overheating because you tried to “fix” a broken radiator is EXPENSIVE.
Seriously, I see these questions all the time, and I don’t fault people who aren’t car enthusiasts for not knowing that radiators are basically disposable, but all the replies giving ideas about how to “save” this broken radiator are dumb as shit and should be ashamed. RADIATORS ARE BASICALLY DISPOSABLE. When a radiator breaks, BUY A NEW ONE. For most cars a new radiator costs LESS THAN A HUNDRED AMERICAN DOLL HAIRS. Trying to fix a plastic radiator is always, every time, with no exceptions, throwing good money after bad.
That to over flow discharge. Looks like there is so nmat left to tap it. It’s not going to discharge until temperature gets too high and pressure cap opens. You will lose a little coolant. Not to worry just check every week or so.
Your ok, no pressure on that hose it’s for the overflow bottle and only flows in there in boil over events, they have threaded nipples you could tap and epoxy in for a temp fix.
Yep
There are tricks to repair, none of them are proven as permanent.