You can and it will probably work for awhile but unless you are extremely observant its going to eventually crack and leak. If the engine overheats it can cost a lot more than what the radiator costs to replace.
Basically max effort and being constantly worried when its gonna fail next. Or just suffer the $150 bucks and 45min job it costs to swap it out and its probably gonna outlast the car.
No. Get a new one is pretty much the only option that fixes the issue. Gluing and epoxy could work in rare cases…but to even do that correctly, you should remove the radiator and do it on a bench and that is a crapshoot as the radiator tank do get pretty crispy due to age, heat expansion and cold contraction over time. These radiators are pretty cheap so why would you invest in removing it without replacing it.
I did this once. It held for about 6 months, then the radiator cracked. I kinda figured it would since it was already brittle enough to break in the first place. But it gave me time to save up for a new radiator, so it was an overall win.
I just saw a guy do this on tiktok and looked like it worked well haven’t done it myself tho. He tapped new threads in there, put a brass fitting in with a ton of pipe dope and it sealed up great.
Could also get a threaded nipple and a cheap tap set. Put some JB weld on it for good measure afterwards. But definitely better to replace it if they don’t have experience with threading or need it for long trips
The spring and cap are heat/pressure(usually pressure) activated, meaning that as pressure/heat increases the spring in there will coil upwards and open itself slightly for excess water from pressure and allows for that water to come out and into an expansion tank.
There are certain vehicles literally equipped with stronger/stiffer springs in them to handle different amounts of pressure; usually 13psi is the usual but sometimes they are rated upwards of 18psi, each manufacturer is different.
I’m sorry you have ZERO clue how these systems operate, don’t come in here giving bad information especially when it’s a well known item in modern cooling systems since about the 80s and you could have simply googled it if you were unsure.
This nipple is after the spring and cap, the other end of this hose it drains into unpressurised expansion tank that is open to the air. How any pressure can build in it? Doesn’t absence of any clamp on the hose gives any clue?
The last two Hondas I worked on where push on style hoses like this with no clamps because they were low pressure systems.
Both had pressure caps and I was asked specifically which year when at the parts counter because they apparently changed them between model years for the refresh.
Drill a hole in both pieces, slide a thin metal pipe coated with epoxy in the rad and the slide the nipple part back on it ! Fixed a lot of those like this and never failed again, actually stronger …
Unfortunately yes. Once those little ports break then it’s nearly impossible to heat or epoxy weld them back on due to the pressure they are under.
Good news is this looks like a Honda/Acura and aftermarket radiators are relatively cheap and easy to replace!
Can’t you just drill and tap a hole and then run a nipple with some Teflon tape into it?
You can and it will probably work for awhile but unless you are extremely observant its going to eventually crack and leak. If the engine overheats it can cost a lot more than what the radiator costs to replace.
Basically max effort and being constantly worried when its gonna fail next. Or just suffer the $150 bucks and 45min job it costs to swap it out and its probably gonna outlast the car.
This will probably work for a while, at least until you get the replacement ready for install.
Would definitely be worth trying.
No. Get a new one is pretty much the only option that fixes the issue. Gluing and epoxy could work in rare cases…but to even do that correctly, you should remove the radiator and do it on a bench and that is a crapshoot as the radiator tank do get pretty crispy due to age, heat expansion and cold contraction over time. These radiators are pretty cheap so why would you invest in removing it without replacing it.
I did this once. It held for about 6 months, then the radiator cracked. I kinda figured it would since it was already brittle enough to break in the first place. But it gave me time to save up for a new radiator, so it was an overall win.
My first thought.
With a bit of epoxy and threading, you’d definitely be able to give yourself a few weeks to procure an alternative.
That’s basically it. It puts the vehicle at risk, but even if the fix “works” it’s only going to work temporarily.
Use jb weld rather than the tape and it will be better
It can’t make it worse if you tap and get a nipple to work it could at least bye some time if not your radiator was already done for so no loss.
No harm in trying, it’s already junk if it doesn’t work
I’ve seen others do this. It’s worth a try, if it doesn’t work, you were still out a radiator anyway.
Drilling to size and sleeving with brake line or any small metal tube and epoxy works best in my experience.
Worth a shot IMO
I just saw a guy do this on tiktok and looked like it worked well haven’t done it myself tho. He tapped new threads in there, put a brass fitting in with a ton of pipe dope and it sealed up great.
Is the reservoir hose/fitting under much pressure?
It can be if it’s a hot day and the cap has opened up the expansion plug for extended amount of time.
Meh, they can try the tap and screw method, but these radiators (even OEM) are cheap as hell.
Where’s the pressure? It’s an overflow hose. You realise older cars just dumped this hose to the ground right?
Op could literally run his car as it is, broken like that so long as they check their coolant levels regularly.
I’m guessing you’re assuming this hose goes to a pressure reservoir? The water trickles through the hose at best.
Ok dude! 👍🏼
What pressure?
There’s no pressure there it’s just a return to the coolant overflow reservoir.
Could also get a threaded nipple and a cheap tap set. Put some JB weld on it for good measure afterwards. But definitely better to replace it if they don’t have experience with threading or need it for long trips
This is for the coolant overflow. It isn’t under any pressure.
i would tap a brass barb in there and seal it with some resen.
This guy has no idea what he’s talking about.
This is a very simple repair involving a tap, a nipple adapter, and some jb weld.
These ports are NOT under high pressure at all, they lead to coolant overflow tanks, which are not pressurized in the slightest.
The spring and cap are heat/pressure(usually pressure) activated, meaning that as pressure/heat increases the spring in there will coil upwards and open itself slightly for excess water from pressure and allows for that water to come out and into an expansion tank.
There are certain vehicles literally equipped with stronger/stiffer springs in them to handle different amounts of pressure; usually 13psi is the usual but sometimes they are rated upwards of 18psi, each manufacturer is different.
I’m sorry you have ZERO clue how these systems operate, don’t come in here giving bad information especially when it’s a well known item in modern cooling systems since about the 80s and you could have simply googled it if you were unsure.
This nipple is after the spring and cap, the other end of this hose it drains into unpressurised expansion tank that is open to the air. How any pressure can build in it? Doesn’t absence of any clamp on the hose gives any clue?
I’m a mechanic and have been one for 15 years. As someone else said there’s no clamp on the hose. That should give you a clue.
Yes, SOME cars are different, especially newer ones that self burp air out of the system. But 90% of vehicles, do not have pressurized overflow lines.
The springs in radiator caps are there TO allow air and coolant to escape to the overflow tanks when the rest of the system is pressurized.
The last two Hondas I worked on where push on style hoses like this with no clamps because they were low pressure systems.
Both had pressure caps and I was asked specifically which year when at the parts counter because they apparently changed them between model years for the refresh.
This is an overflow line. It’s not under particularly high pressure. A bodge may be possible
Drill a hole in both pieces, slide a thin metal pipe coated with epoxy in the rad and the slide the nipple part back on it ! Fixed a lot of those like this and never failed again, actually stronger …
wtf are u smoking, my dad could fix that any day