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Cake day: October 23rd, 2023

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  • It was a built 360, 13.5-1 compression, big cam, ported heads, single plane intake, 3600rpm stall converter, built 727 trans w manual valve body, 4:56 rear diff 8 3/4 rear. It was in a lightweight 1972 Plymouth Duster. I had several friends with built big block chevelles, chargers, 442, challengers back then and it did well. I was going broke buying racing gas though. Two of my friends regularly drove their narrowed rear end, parachute/wheelie bar cars on the street. They both could do wheelies. lol


  • Keep your stability/traction on when driving in slippery conditions and you should be fine. My first car when I was 16 was a heavily modded 500hp muscle car, back in the early 80’s. I drove that year round in WI. I’ve owned nothing but high hp rwd performance cars ever since.

    Just use good judgement and if you can, find a large deserted parking lot(after store hours) and practice car control in the rain or snow. It’s a safe way to find out how a car feels when it’s about to break traction and if it does, how to correct without over correcting. Just make sure the lot is s deserted and d there aren’t a lot of light poles.

    I’ve seen folks trying to show off in lots and drift right into poles.



  • brewcitygymratt@alien.topBtoBMW@gearhead.townOctane rating
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    1 year ago

    You won’t really hurt your engine since your ecu will adjust timing etc for the lower octane, why buy a high performance car if your going to neuter some of the performance with lower octane fuel? There may be additional additives/detergents in premium vs regular, or at least that used to be the case.

    Heck I even put premium gas (for the additives), in my lawnmower and snowblower, and both are over 30yrs old. They still run as well as the day I bought them.