Either put in a reman, or pull the heads and see what the damage is and go from there.

Nothing at all to do with the tires, sounds like you have a brake hanging up or possibly a wheel bearing that’s completely trashed.

I didn’t believe you but checked a couple of catalogs and the aftermarket limited slips for 7.5s all say fit 3.23 and up only. I assume it has to do with the size of the ring gear being too small on the 2.56 to fit the carrier. Unless GM ever made a limited slip for a 2.56 (unlikely) then I think your choices are stay with the peg leg, or go to a 3.23. Unless your intended use is days at a time on the highway at 80 mph I’d put a 3.23 in it- that dog of a 5.0 needs all the help it can get, and will be a bit nicer around town and what not with a 3.23.

Well, it’s your vehicle, so you can get it back, but he probably has the right to put a lien on it against what you owe him so far, assuming he’s done work. Since it sounds like his business is either failed or failing or it’s no longer his priority, I think you should assume this isn’t going to ever get finished, certainly not on the timeline you expected. The best way to handle it is arrange a face-to-face meeting, inspect what he’s done so far and negotiate a cost for the work actually done to date, pay and then tow your vehicle elsewhere to get it finished. If he’s no longer in business or you can’t get in touch with him or whatever then I’d definitely get legal advice about how to reclaim your property before it gets caught up in a liquidation sale or held as collateral or otherwise caught up. Regardless, you did authorize him to work on it and you’ll still owe him for what he’s actually done, just need to negotiate a price you both agree on for that work.

I’ve always had good luck with ATK

More expensive probably bidirectional, live data, capture, and maybe manufacturer codes. Cheap, probably just a code reader, maybe some very slow live data.

Sounds like a restriction in a line. Assume you changed the sock when you did the pump, I’d start working backwards until you find where you have fuel and then clear or replace the line between there and the fuel rail. Not sure that a regulator can fail to the point it bypasses so much fuel that pressure goes to zero but you could start there- crimp the return and see if it spikes.

You should do whatever the service manual says, since the torque value will change.

Yes, no replacement for displacement

I wouldn’t, if too much goes into one cylinder you could hydrolock it. You can use 2 cycle gas and try starting it, will provide some lubrication to the rings.

It would be a major repair, doubtful it would be economically worthwhile, and if it’s that bad probably the rest of the car is as bad or worse. Probably time to call the scrap yard.

The dealer doesn’t really want to service your high mile, 25 year old car so they are giving you the “get lost” quote. Take it to a reputable independent.

Depends on the car but most are probably going to be cast; some are probably weldments. You can get your own by going to a junkyard and pulling one off of a turbo car, probably wouldn’t cost you much if you get something old in low demand.

Thinking possibly that while running it with malfunctioning boost control the stuttering was from ECU pulling back timing and fuel until it would stop detonating. No idea what the intermittent yesterday would be, possibly put into fail safe or something. You’ll have to pull codes and ideally I’d put a real scanner on it with data stream. It’s not good running it with malfunctioning boost control if that’s what’s going on- good way to hole a piston or melt a valve.

No not safe to drive, at least any distance. The shock is bent and rubbing the tire, there could be other damage- get it inspected.

Is that an old carb/tbi air cleaner? If so what they are doing is wedging open the thermac air valve- maybe the vacuum motor failed (if it’s vacuum operated) or temp sensor or whatever. I’d test it out, if it works I’d hook it back up. If it doesn’t work and you can’t find part to fix it then I’d look for a less obstructive way to hold it open, or remove it completely. They run a lot better in the winter with this functioning btw.

Sounds like the booster has failed, likely because your master cylinder is leaking into it and has damaged the diaphragm. Check first to make sure your booster vacuum line is connected and has no leaks but otherwise I’d definitely start by replacing both since they apparently are both bad.