I was trying to replace a stud for my 09 Altima 2.5. didn’t find any space or gap to get the stud out. Tried to spin whatever the position it can be but no luck. Any advice? Anyway that can take that thing off cost effectively?

  • CulturePrestigious93@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    You said your new stud comes with the head already modded for installation, cut this old one. Dont even waste time grinding the head of it, just cut it , pull it out, install new stud

  • awqsed10@alien.topOPB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Update: found a shop trying to install it. Good news they took the stud out, bad news is the thread of holding the stud is gone and wheel bearing is necessary. Any thoughts?

      • awqsed10@alien.topOPB
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        10 months ago

        Will be arriving soon. Thanks for the advice. Should have been doing it earlier. But how did the threads gone? I did put it in and out couple of times.

        • TruthThruAcoustics@alien.topB
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          10 months ago

          Fourteen year old threads in a spot that sees some of the most moisture and dramatic heat cycling will rarely come out clean. On top of that the hub is designed to replaced instead of serviced (See; cheap) so it’s a losing battle in the first place.

          Sorry for being a grump! Glad you’re almost back on the road.

  • halwasdeleted@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    You may have to grind or file a flat spot on the stud coming out to get clearance. Dorman has studs with flats already in them for easier installation

  • Spksnppr@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    No grinding. Separate the bearing housing then you’ll have the room to slide the stud out. 4 bolts from the backside.

  • jrsixx@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Cut the old stud shorter to remove it. New stud, grind about 1/8-1/4 of the rounded end (like a nail head) down towards the thread so it’s flat. Kind of an awkward looking D. The flat should slip by the hub and go right in.

    • awqsed10@alien.topOPB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      It means I have to replace wheel bearing assembly. Too pricey and time consuming for this car.

  • TruthThruAcoustics@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Jesus, the people talking about grinding/cutting don’t know what the fuck they are talking about.

    You need to remove your axle nut, and the 4 bolts on the backside of the knuckle. The entire hub and wheel bearing should come off.

    You should be replacing the entire assembly, they are not that expensive at <$100

    • redrecaro@alien.topB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      It’s a time and money saver. You grind part of the round tip so you have enough room to work out the old one and install the new one. If you don’t know this trick then you probably don’t know what you’re talking about. On Hondas you have to press the hub bearing out which calls for 2 hours just to replace a stud a $5 stub, so this is a quick alternative and it’s effective.

      • TruthThruAcoustics@alien.topB
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        10 months ago

        I’m a certified master tech at a shop that specializes in performance Honda builds, so I’m familiar.

        This is an ‘09 Altima. The hub and bearing bolt on.

        I’m very aware of this “trick” used by hack mechanics that creates a weak point.

        I prefer to repair things the correct way.

        • camman6969@alien.topB
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          10 months ago

          A million dollars for anyone that’s seen a wheel stud pull through because of that little grind. Love the fear mongering people will pull to steal money from old ladies.

        • redrecaro@alien.topB
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          10 months ago

          In this case yes just pull the hub by unbolting but a charging a customer over $200 labor for once stud replacement is not right, this is not a safety issue one slightly grinded stud out of 5 is not going to cause a safety issue. I could care less that you are a certified Honda mechanic, the stealership has no problems ripping off customers.

    • Trucks4Work@alien.topB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      If it was a customer car I’d agree but on my own car? I’d grind that shit down just enough to sneak out the stud

      • Shamino79@alien.topB
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        10 months ago

        Are you going to cut the replacement, sneak it back in then weld it together? Arguably mechanics are all about getting the new part in.

          • Shamino79@alien.topB
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            1
            ·
            10 months ago

            My bad, I was half asleep. I had presumed he was going to mutilate the stud. He’s talking about gouging a hole in the side of the assembly behind. Have to take a fair chunk out to make it happen. Couldn’t be that difficult to get a pin out and start undoing a nut.

            • ZSG13@alien.topB
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              1
              ·
              10 months ago

              Grinding the head of the stud would be enough I bet. Super quick and easy. Removing a cotter pin and a nut will leav OP very far from being able to complete the job

                • ZSG13@alien.topB
                  link
                  fedilink
                  English
                  arrow-up
                  1
                  ·
                  10 months ago

                  OP posted that the replacement stud has a notch cut out in order to fit in. What else is in the way, the small bit of backing plate that hasn’t rusted away yet? Cut or bend it. I doubt the knuckle would be in the way

    • awqsed10@alien.topOPB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      Saying if I need to wait for delivery of the assembly. Can I drive it on highway as usual? Nearby part store asking for 150 for it.

      • Dm-me-a-gyro@alien.topB
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        10 months ago

        Bro, your time has value. Get the part near you and get it on the car and stop dealing with it.

        You’ll have a safe working car and it’ll have cost you very little money.

  • Fragrant-Inside221@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Looks like that thin metal backing plate is what’s blocking you from getting the stud out. Make that notch in the backing plate bigger.

  • SirStocks@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Would have saved greif to run a die over the existing stud and use antiseize or grease in the future to keep threads from galling.

  • SpaceAgePotatoCakes@alien.topB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    The notch in the backing plate makes it look like you’re in the right spot, what’s it getting hung up on? The head of the stud on the knuckle side of the bearing? Can you angle it more at all?

    If not get a file or a dremel and grind down one side of the head enough to clear. You may need to do the same to the replacement.

    • theminiwheats@alien.topB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      I second this, grind off a bit of the head so it clears, and hopefully it makes it out through that notch

        • traineex@alien.topB
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          10 months ago

          U can cut any spot thats easiest. If cutting the bolt in half gives enough clearance, u dont have to play around in the tight area

        • New_Combination_7012@alien.topB
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          10 months ago

          With a rotary tool you could grind off the two stripped threads and keep the stud. It would lose negligible strength if any. Just bevel the sides after.

    • ShadeTreeDad@alien.topB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      This. Grind down the head of the new stud. On the bad one you can just cut it in half for removal.