Pb blaster soaked every 10 mins for awhile, long ass breaker bar or impact …if bust one then take that route of new but I think they will break
08 Silverado fyi
I’d imagine they’d break free. My Ram 1500’s looked like that and with a breaker bar I was able to get them off.
Another thing you could do if they are super rust locked is hit it with pb blaster a couple times and let it really soak in, then use an battery/ air impact on it. The threads are likely perfectly fine it’s just the head that’s locked.
I believe yours are torqued to 139 ft/lbs so they are on there tight.
PB blaster, blow torch, and then impact
A 50/ 50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone soak…and patience. They also make sockets you pound on to get better grip if the 6 point doesn’t work. Good luck
Is that better than commercial penetrants like PB Blaster, or is that just one of those things mechanics tend to use because they have it sitting around I have a 100 year old cast iron screw jack, massive thing, that I am trying to free the screw up. PB soaks right in, hesitant to use heat because cast iron.
I know mechanics have used transmission fluid forever. I have used this mix successfully on several occasions. I keep Kroil and seafoam deep creep on hand as well,they both work good.
Kroil is godly
They look bad but I feel like they’d come off. The important part is the threads inside which are probably fine. I’d hit it with some penetrating fluid and heat just to be safer though.
Blue wrench is your friend here.
You can always go for the anglegrinder after the heads are rounded off.
I agree with people saying to use penetrant, but you should also use a wire brush before wrenching, and a hammer to break some flakes and static friction. I don’t have an impact, so I smack the back of my breaker bar with a hammer. Keeps the socket seated, and usually gets things free.
Don’t be shy about using a jack under the handle of your breaker bar. It can apply a LOT more force than you can.
Additionally don’t forget that if you crank the steering wheel you can get MUCH better access to those bolts.
Pb blaster, heat, pb blaster, heat. I prefer to heat then candle wax myself. A nice 6 point socket and extension bar. You’ll get er
FYI new and rebuilt calipers usually include brackets. It’s often harder to find just the bracket and it’s nearly the same price or even less.
Threads are on the caliper bracket. So even if you break the bolts, the assembly will come off.
I have taken a cheap socket, jammed it on and tacked it with a wire feed welder.
Worked that time.
For a stuck bleeder on a good caliper, I had a small jeweler’s torch, MAPP and oxy, heated it up hot, not enough for cherry red, and the trickle water on it, and the thermal expansion broke it free.
A good fitting socket and impact will almost surely break those free. Honestly they don’t really look bad at all. Or a good fitting boxed end wrench and hammer on it. Though the position may be a problem. Penetrant will help I second the 50/50 trans fluid acetone or Kano Kroil stuff works far better than any other I’ve tried.