Its >probably< going to just fit, regarding the lug hole sizes.

I’m MUCH more concerned about the width of the wheel/tire. The Astro’s widest stock wheel was 7", but the 94 impala ss was 8.5". There’s a decent chance of contact between the tire and the strut.

You’d want a 3/8" torque wrench. Don’t skip the ‘disconnect the battery’ step!

Do you know the torques you need? Its probably only three bolts(two mounting and one electrical)

Stuck open or missing(!) thermostat.

I wonder if a good strong magnet and a piece of magnetic film would be good enough to visualize the magnet, even through steel.

If you can get the button pressed and it isn’t going down, the cable(s) are likely frozen in their sheath. To get you going again(once!) you can probably take the rear wheels off and whack the lever the other end of the cables are attached to back in the other direction while someone is holding the parking brake handle button down.

How much went in the reservoir, and has the engine been run since it was added? If its not much or the engine has been run, I’d just run it. If its a decent amount and the engine hasn’t been run, empty the reservoir(via turkey baster/siphon) and add antifreeze as usual.

Make/model/year/engine would help.

Any chance you have the wrong drum? Is it just getting caught on the shoes on both sides at the same time? If its only one side, the slave cylinder’s pistons may not be centered(you can just push whichever shoe is sticking out more).

Store it at 10, and don’t even THINK of using it to measure torques less than 30 ft lbs(and 30 is a stretch!). If you need to measure such torques, get a 3/8" wrench. Even a 3/8" wrench won’t do 10 ft lbs well.

Hard spots on the pads, dirt getting stuck between rotor and pad, stuff like that.

That is correct. You can also(as a second test) apply a vacuum to the valve and see if it leaks down. I’m sure it will.

Probably not, because I imagine that the starter motor will be drawing more than 60 amps during cranking. Note that the scope isn’t likely to be fried even if you feed it more than 40V. I’d also wager that the current clamp’s internals will just saturate at over 60 amps so it’ll never send a signal greater than the 60amp value(60a/100ma=600mv, or 0.6V)

It looks like the current clamp I linked is actually >included< in the ‘master’ set, btw.

No, EVs don’t have commonly stolen items like that. The most value-dense item in an EV would be the battery or maybe drive motor(s), and either one of those is going to be a major challenge to remove in a parking lot in a minute or less. TBH, the most valuable easy-to-steal parts of EV are probably the wheels/tires.

An amp clamp shouldn’t send any significant voltage to the scope. Amps are not volts. As an example, look at https://www.aeswave.com/current-clamp-60a-ac-dc-with-bnc-p9417.html, where one of its settings is 1mv/100ma, so a 40 volt meter should be able to read 40000 times 100ma or 4000 amps. Note that I’m not saying you could use that particular clamp with your pocket scope, nor that you could connect it, and it can’t read more than 60 amps so would be inappropriate for your starter checking, but it should give you an idea of what scales you are dealing with.

Ya… don’t disregard it. The manufacturer makes service recommendations based on what they think the car needs to continue to work. Your two mechanics are making recommendations based either on what they know how to do or what they feel like doing(or not doing).

I’ve changed the rear differential fluid in our 2019 CRV. It’s just a little more difficult than an oil change, in that you need to actively pump the new fluid in the fill hole and there’s no dipstick to check it(you just fill until it starts running out the fill hole). Honda calls for their own fluid, so your mechanics may be disinterested in doing the job.

Regarding the transmission fluid change, get that done too, moreso if its a CVT. Your mechanics may also be trying to avoid the transmission fluid change because Honda wants their own fluid for that, as well.

I was a little surprised when our 2019 wanted new rear diff fluid considerably before new CVT fluid, but I guess the computers know what they are doing.

Make/model/year might help. Sometimes that ‘radiator support’ is replaceable separately from the rest of the frame.

Other ideas… ratchet strap to a very close very stout tree, with an additional sledgehammer whack if you can get the angle.

The lower end of that link is a ball joint. You can just(with some effort since its new and stiff) push it into an angle. You can even see in your video that the side that’s still on is at like a 45 degree angle.

You’ll be fine. Oil doesn’t break down due to age. 5k on synthetic is no big deal.

I’m gonna take a wild guess and say the PB parts are lead free, but I’m still looking.

C’mon man, I typed “26R AGM battery” into duckduckgo…

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ODYODSAGM42LA

You could also consider lithium ion batteries.

Google image search is your friend: Tail Light Out Indicator

This symbol is a Tail Light Indicator symbols. The replacement of a light bulb or two will restore order. Some manufacturers add a text message in the instrument panel noting exactly which light is out. The symbol is often described as eyelashes coming out of the back of a car!