Chevy and Ford are an unmitigated engine disaster right now.

Years of quality advancements and in the last 10 year took a hard left and decided to make just shit unreliable engines.

Dont buy American.

A can of contact cleaner is 15 bucks.

Ask them to explain how a little bit of coffee in a low amperage accessory connector can kill 2 batteries.

Ask them for the serial numbers of the batteries they replace, the old one and the new one.

Ask them how they tested the batteries. A carbon pile tester is the only reliable way to test a battery, no new fangled clip on tester can detect a bad cell reliably.

Im guessing you have a bad battery, and they didnt replace the battery but did a battery “service” and just charged it.

Ultimately tell them you want to take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion.

Put all tires on, put in 4WD, drive a foot.

Put POS jack in the scrap pile.

Disconnect the alternator cable that goes to the battery, see if it starts with a freshly charged battery.

07, was that still one of the Ford designs?

Why not just scratch a line on the two parts?

Im sorry.

Reach out to Ford, maybe they have a extended warranty on the replaced tranny.

Have your local mechanic replace the tranny with a used junkyard swap, then immediately trade it in and never buy another Ford. Or Chevy. Or Dodge. Or Chrysler. Or american.

The turbo engines are just a comedy of engineering failures and are ticking time bombs across the board, honestly if it weren’t the tranny it would have been the engine.

I wish him the best on his continued recovery…you are obviously a thoughtful and resourceful person to come here, turning over whatever stones you can to find solutions. I wish you both the best.

Fellow Masshole here.

Every car I have sold, no matter the condition, I have required the buyer sign a bill of sale.

Its a simple text document -

I, woohooguy, sells (make model year) (VIN) with (miles) in AS IS condition to (space for buyer name)

Vehicle (may/will/) require work to meet required state inspection standards OR

Vehicle will not meet required state inspection standards, for parts only.

Sign 1

Sign 2

Keep a copy for your records and you are fine.

Mass law dictates so long as you dont sell more than 3 cars in a 12 month period, you are not a dealer, which is where the lemon law comes in.

The bill of sale with the buyer signature protects you from small claims bullshit.

At 100k you should service the following -

Spark plug replacement

Belt replacement (there are 3 belts - AC, Alternator, and power steering if not done previously with timing belt)

Brake fluid flush

Coolant flush

Steering fluid flush

Transmission fluid replacement

The timing belt should have been replaced at around 80k miles on the Accent. The timing belt is a critical component, if it breaks the engine cylinders will smash the valves and destroy the engine. If the timing belt has not been serviced, you should do it right away.

At the same time of the timing belt, you should do the following as it all needs to come apart anyway, and if one fails you do it all over again -

Water pump

AC idler pulley

Timing belt idler

Timing belt spring

Timing belt tensioner pulley

Things to consider -

Front struts and rear shocks. 100k on the little car is lot of work for them and they are well worn, even if not leaking or showing signs of it.

The rear parking brake (hand or emergency brake) may not be properly adjusted.

Try applying the parking brake a few times, in rapid succession. Crank it on, release, crank it on, release. Do this 5 to 8 times.

Release the brake and take a test drive.

Still noise?

In a safe area with clear space like an empty parking lot with no light towers, back up at less than 5 mph and apply parking brake. Do this a couple times.

Release the brake and take a test drive.

Still noise?

Did they resurface the rear rotors, or are the rear rotors brand new?

If resurfaced, one of the rear rotors may still be out of spec and causing uneven pressure during braking.

If new, a rear rotor may be out of spec causing the same.

It is also possible there is some debris stuck between the wheel bearing hub and rotor, or rotor and tire rim.

Dont be afraid to call the dealer and have them take another look, you paid a good amount for proper service and its obviously not 100 percent right.

Sounds like you have a broken CV boot. The part looks like this -

https://www.rockauto.com/info/464/KA8014A.jpg

Rock auto has the shaft for about 65 bucks. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/kia,2007,amanti,3.8l+v6,1434889,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288

When the CV boot breaks, all the grease inside gets spun out and goes everywhere. This also allows rain and road dirt into the joint, damaging it.

Now the real question? Is it the CV joint or the wheel bearing?

You mentioned you hit a curb, and its unlikely the CV joint would suffer damage from a curb strike unless the strike was severe, and it probably wouldn’t be drivable at that point. Like tire falling off damage.

When the CV joint is bad, the car will start to make clicking/grinding noises when you turn the wheel left or right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2c1nxR7aq1o

If the car is making noise that, its a bad CV joint.

A bad wheel bearing sounds like this -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpsLaSzcAu4

Pay attention at 1:12 of that video. When he takes that long right turn, the sound lessens then returns as the road straightens.

That is a perfect example of a bad right (passenger side) wheel bearing. When you take a nice long right curve, the vehicle weight shifts to the left side of the car, taking pressure off the wheel bearing and making it quiet for a bit.

The wheel bearing isnt a lot of money, but pressed in place and requires special tools to replace, and requires a mechanic or advanced shade tree DIY’er with a 2 ton shop press.

Ideally you should have the CV axle and wheel bearing replaced at the same time, as you pretty much have to remove the cv axle to replace the wheel bearing.

I’m sorry this has to happen at this time of year.

With more and more parts being made in china, its not uncommon to have a new part fail or be out of spec right from the box.

Try another brand of oil pressure sensor. Also double check any grounds in the same circuit of the sensor to make sure they are solid with no weak or broken wires. Dont use common anti seize on ground bolts, unless it is silver or copper.

You are spending too much on those bulbs, any pair from Amazon over 30 dollars will last just as long and be just as brite.

Dont be a dick and install those in place of regular H11’s, those are meant for fog lights.

Buy and install 1 led bulb. If it flickers or you get vehicle trouble codes, then buy the canbus resistor pigtails. Put those in-line and all issues are solved.

The old shop only needs to focus on the engine, it works the same way.

Get another opinion or dealer. The dealer you are going to is incompetent.

Contact Hyundai and try to get a complaint to the regional manager, the dealer sucks at fixing their cars.

OBD was mandated by California in 1991.

Come 1996, it was standardized and then required by the EPA/Federal government for all cars sold.

As standards dictate, cars before 96 may not be reliable to decode.

That sensor is a turbo pressure sensor.

If its filling with oil, you may have a problem with the PCV system, or a bad turbo leaking oil into the engine intake.

A bad PCV system can suck oil into the intake, and a bad turbo will leak oil through seals into the intake as well.

No amount of Reddit diagnosis is gonna fix this for you.

Word review -

“Chevy + turbo”

Yup, its fucked. Dont waste money.

The Volkswagen Camry.