5e? 6a minimum not much price difference. We all already running multigig to AP’s. Really go with a recessed and keystones with smurf tube back to your wiring closet.

Where are the TV’s and displays. They need some Cat6a as well. Data and don’t forget hdmi over twisted pair.

22/2 for Door/Window sensors why not /4 in case you need a second contact run or something powered. I did conduit to the window and doors it’s an easy place to access already used one to get an extra camera run. Takes care of the power shades as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Z-Wave-Enabled/dp/B003D08BIC?th=1

zwave or wifi and will work without a c wire.

All of the google nest line.

There are countless smart thermostats that can do this with getting into hacking dry contact relays in parallel.

Yes HASS natively supports roku and will let you change inputs (they are apps in its terms). So you can make automations based upon an app starting switch apps etc.

Any roku smart tv can do this via API, home assistant already has a binding.

Not sure you will like how it works as the Hulu app would restart.

2600 bucks for

3kwh of battery that’s about 700 bucks

3kw inverter/charger 1k

200w of solar 100bucks

You need 2 of them to get split phase 240 needed for a US home.

5k for 6kwh setup that still does not have a ATS etc to work well

I would and did get a pair of victron inverters for about the same money you can get 10kwh of batteries and expand from there. These work with a generator and integrate well with home automation (they talk MQTT so easy to deal with)

Proper isolation is what stops them.

HA/IoT should be on it’s own isolated SSID (wifi name) and Vlan with only the hub connecting to it. This becomes the one thing you have to trust but between open source and reputable vendors you have plenty of choices here. It’s also the device that provides a modicum of security since you can keep it up to date.

https://www.olimex.com/Products/IoT/ESP32/ESP32-POE/open-source-hardware

18 euro with discounts a 10 plus.

Now from a practical standpoint if it’s just a mmwave presence could wire those all back to a central location and avoid putting a micro in every room.

Run cat 6a, 48v is a good choice and you can use a simple dc to dc at the esp32 end. Can do the same for the sensor. Throw it all in a plastic workbox.

from a cost and complexity the esp32 with poe is pretty cheap and you can probably tap into spare1 and 2 to run a dc to dc for the mm wave sensor.

devices need to communicate with each other not just via the hub or worse several layers like your seeing. Throwing in poling makes it even worse.

Your fixated on wifi throughput. That’s what I originally said, it’s a protocol issue typical of wifi devices. Not that you can’t get wifi to work well rather that IoT over wifi tend to be implemented badly.

Only if they have a device to device communication channel that most wifi devices lack. Like I said the problem is not the medium but the protocol design. Wifi’s orders of magnitude faster throughput does not fix a bad protocol.

Pull the GPU, get linux installed.

I’m running one gen newer of that cpu it’s running hass, frigate, a plex stack, ad blocking, backup and fronting 250TB of storage with plenty of CPU time to spare.

A stock mains photocell and a pair of shelly relays.

Put in a standard old school switch at the door wire this as the switch input with one relay.

The second goes in the light fixture along with a new photocell, photocell as the switch input and light to the output.

https://www.shelly.com/documents/developers/ddd_communication.pdf for how to link them.

Link them so the inside switch and toggle the light.

https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-1pm-web-interface-guide for how to turn off at midnight.

Now you could just skip the photocell and use the calculated dawn/dusk time.

Should be about 30 bucks + the photocell and switch.

Latency is that wifi devices don’t typically talk to each other and have to go out the the cloud and back again, that’s everything from the fairly minor network latency to processing to various polling etc times all put together. It’s not the medium rather the protocol thats running over it.

Z-wave is a lot slower but the latency between pressing a button and the light turning on far lower than your random wifi with a phone app and cloud junk. This is a function of the protocol used not the medium it’s working over.

Latency is often an issue and why wifi tends to be a poor choice, devices need to communicate with each other not just via the hub or worse several layers like your seeing. Throwing in poling makes it even worse.

Z-wave works well here you setup the association in your hub but the devices talk amongst themselves from then on.

It’s pretty trivial pi gpio to mqtt exists and that gets you to any reasonable hub.

Rotary encoders would be a bit harder to deal with but analog pots are trivial.

Once they are in your hub automate away.

Surface tablets have multiple USB.

Not sure why you set against a hub.

Why change? Keep things running on the pi and just use the tablet as a display interface.

I never cared for inputs tried it but really I figure if I need to do something the automation is broken. I do have a bunch of eink displays around the house.

Not at least by the terms used.

A modem converts say cable/dsl/fiber to ethernet.

A router plugs into that and does NAT to hide your internal network from the world. Technically it’s a firewall but typically misused term is router in home networking.

A switch plugs into that.

Wireless AP’s plug into that along with any wired devices.

Your ISP will often give you one box thats all of these things in one.

The modem in the basement connected to a router with one more more AP’s around the house. I have 4700 sqf on 3 levels it’s 3 AP’s to get excellent coverage.

X-10 and the problem is it’s one way no confirmation or query of state. Lots of issues with this protocol signaling over powerline is not that easy it’s a pretty dirty place with all sorts of noise.

Use a better mesh. Z-wave 900mhz is pretty clear, casetta 400mhz as well it’s just zigbee and thread that picked 2.4ghz mostly as it means same radio worldwide while it’s slightly different frequencies so a AU zwave can not talk to US one.