I am building a new house and I am trying to prewire as much as possible. If price was not an object what would you pre-wire?

Currently, I have my house being set up for Lutron RA2 lights

Putting 18/2 for speakers in each rooms

One cat5e by each room for a tablet/intercom

Cat5e for cameras

22/2 for Door/window contacts by all exterior doors and windows

smurftube by every room (where the intercom is for future growth).

18/2 by windows where I may want power shades.

What else am I missing?

Thank you

  • matthegr@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Conduit to every room if desired, and honestly, I would pull fiber if I did it again.

  • _TheDrizzle@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Why CAT5e? Go CAT6. You don’t need CAT6 now, but you may in the future. The cost difference is not that bad.

    You also may want outlets on the eaves of the roof for Christmas lights.

    While you’ll have speaker wire, might as well run wire for an Dobly Atmos setup. You might now use it, but you may in the future. Make sure to run good quality and proper gauge wire a well. Might as well run the wire for a dual subwoofer setup. Again, you’ll probably won’t use it, but maybe in the future.

    Make sure to have an outlet where the CAT5 panel runs into a well. I had to hire an electrician to install one. That said, my house did not come with a panel and did all the work afterwards.

  • dee_lio@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Conduits with at least two pull wires all home run to a central, well ventilated and well powered battery backed up closet or equipment room.

    If I had it to do over again, I’d get a nice equipment room at the end of those conduits. That’s my biggest gripe now. I have everything a rack that lives in the top of a small closet. No room to work on it if something gets an upgrade, and no room for non racked items. I had to run a line to another part of the house for that, and it’s a hassle.

    Get a nice 19" rack system to bolt everything down that’s rack mounted. Double points if it’s on a swivel (so you can work on the back side) or has a swing door. You can get rack mount UPS, but they’re pricier that what you get for a stand alone UPS. I’d also put a mounting wall (usually a peg board) and some shelving in there, too.

    Whatever you put in there will be obsolete before you finish hooking it up, so make room for upgrades.

    As for what to do now, I like the idea of double ethernet + doable coax to location. Also, I like having built into the wall speakers, so I agree with your idea there, too. If you’re going to do a mesh system, then consider getting another line to terminate in each corner of the house, in the ceiling. You can POE a mesh unit on the ceilings, getting you some really good coverage.

  • Sportiness6@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    I would run Cat6A not cat 5E. At least 5 runs to each room. I would run the largest reasonable gauge cable and have each rooms receiver in a closet along with the networking gear. I’d future proof running 2 fiber runs to each room.

  • AlbaMcAlba@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Put a dual Ethernet at each end of a room. You might think you’ll not need them but you probably will.

  • JohnC53@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Don’t skimp on ethernet. Even if not needed for data transmission, it can also be used to power low voltage devices via POE. (Example, wall mounted LCD panels for smart house).

  • chuyskywalker@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    I’m about to start building and I listed out all 128 runs of cable – highlights:

    • I’m not doing speaker runs. Maybe I’ll regret this, but voice assistants and whole-home audio just isn’t my family’s jam.
    • Every place I put an outlet, pull two runs
    • Just about every wall has a jack, minimum two per room
    • Dual runs for security cameras to at least all four corners of the house; I also have several interior cameras as well
    • Smurf tube
    • Sensors for windows & doors, even interior doors
    • Runs for access points
    • Runs for hardwired sensors
    • Runs to utilities (water shut off, power monitoring, water heater, even behind the washing machine)
    • Runs for water leak detection
    • A lot of the locations I’m pull cat to are NOT for ethernet, not at the outset anyway. My philosophy is that maybe someday down the line there would be some novel reason to have an ESP32 at the end of the run for a door sensor – until that time, though, wire is wire and I can just use the ethernet cord for a dumb reed switch loop, no big deal.

    And here it is in a visual drops location format

  • neutralpoliticsbot@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Power delivery USB C that supports 100w minimum to every room. PoE cable to every room. Switches with energy monitoring.

  • skinnycenter@alien.topB
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    10 months ago
    1. I added a wall outlet & network drop for a portrait mount 32” tv in the kitchen. We have that connected to a DAKBoard and it’s easily the most used/commented on item in the house. It holds Family calendar, weather and the like.

    2. Ceiling mount Sonos speakers in the kitchen, dining, master bath and master closet connected to Sonos amps. Rock solid and sound great

    3. Lutron switches and shades. It’s been over three years and not one problem

    4. Cat 6 to every tv location, exterior camera and AP

    Edit: have everything terminate in the basement with at least 12 outlets on its own breaker and have the cable coax or whatever your isp connection is terminate there as well.

  • zalek92@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Oversize any in slab conduits for the future. Same if your feeder comes underground.

    3/4 plywood under drywall where tv is going, media box with outlet, 2" Smurf tube from behind TV to couple locations where your AV gear might end up over the years to boxes with brush plates

    Conduit or pipe between basement and attic for any future expansion.

    Outlets in outside soffits for Christmas lights

    Pre wire for smart doorbell

  • binaryhellstorm@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Smurftube in each corner and center of the ceiling of each room. As well as next to at least one outlet box on each wall.

    Cat6E on the roof peaks and edges of the roof for cameras.

    Neutral wires in all the light switch boxes.