The lower intake gasket. You need to have the pumps cam lobe on base circle before installing. Loosen the bolts a little at a time alternating between the two. Replace the oil and filter if the pump was leaking fuel. Reset the fuel trims with a scanner.

“Caution: Alternately hand-tighten the fuel pump bolts one turn at a time until the pump is fully seated. Trying to draw down the pump without even side-to-side tightening may result in pump plunger damage.”

The BCM isn’t involved in the starting circuit on this. Ignition switch, trans switch and relay is the path.

I’ve seen that at times over the years. Good idea to hook up a scope with an Amp Clamp and see if the pump is spinning. This shows if the pump is spinning and the circuit is working. Low amps mean little work and maybe out of gas. I doubt the tech did that step. I do because I’ve been there and wanted to come up with a good test for that. It’s not a test that comes up in service info or maybe training. If they replaced the pump with sender they would have been covered in your case. I see senders online and also pump and senders for a little more. It’s kind of a live and learn thing. You could have pressed the issue if you paid for the repair but not sure if that would have helped. Good for you doing it yourself, big savings.

I found a video that may be useful. Usually there’s some kind of port to access for this kind of thing. Most likely you need a shifter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUmSFeI4ZJE

Yep. No battery reset needed.

Here’s what I found in service info.

Clean the battery cable terminals and apply grease to retard the formation of corrosion.

Connect the positive (+) terminal, and then connect the negative (−) terminal of the battery.

After the battery is installed, initial diagnosis of the electronic throttle control is performed. Wait for 10 seconds or more after turning the ignition switch to ON, and then start the engine.