Copper coated Aluminum house wire is fine though. It is actually a better conductor than pure copper wiring. It doesn’t expand and contract like plain aluminum wire. It was added to the National Electric Code in 1971.

As an old old dinosaur that can’t find my reading glasses half the time, I love the ability to change font size.

That’s interesting. I obviously don’t own an EV, but once our 2011 ICE car dies, will be getting a used EV to replace it. Hopefully I will know enough by then.

Do they ever change and purge the cooling system fluid for the battery and motor?

Use a smart, energy monitoring, plug with your charger. When you plug in, or start to wireless charge, say from 10pm to 6am, to runs your goodnight routine.

No, the whole point of a smart home for me is automation. I don’t understand people that want to run their smart homes with dash boards, remotes, or phones.

You can set up a routine for a smart plug that will turn it off after a time period after being turned on. You can add a routine to power on the smart plug at the times you expect to be out. You can also use a motion sensor to turn on the plug.

After the smart plug turns on you will still need to turn on the heater unless you can mount a smart button pusher to push the button for you.

My 2011 car’s Bluetooth won’t stay connected to my iphone 13 mini. With first generation echo auto, the phone connects to the speakers for music and I have hands free calling.

Think of all the gas powered lawn tools in the US.

You will need to roll your own with ShortCuts then.

kythera-weather-watch

The switch problem isn’t because of the software. The switches have had their relays burned out. Look at the maximum power the switch can handle. Most will be around 150W for LED bulbs.

If not the wattage there could be a bulb cause super fast contact switching. This burns out the relay.