Sounds like either way it’d be good to get rid of the car. I also wonder why the dealership will essentially pay 9k for a vehicle that allegedly needs thousands of dollars of work to be able to sell it for 15k. Seems like small profit margins for them unless the fix is in fact easier and cheaper than a new engine. I would try to see what they think needs to be done to it and go from there. Maybe it is as simple as a $1000 fix

If it’s a 6.9 idi then it’s a diesel and it’s not carbureted. The pump is still feeding the engine fuel and therefore the engine is still running. They run off compression and not a spark igniting the fuel like a gas engine. As long as it turns off when you turn the fuel pump off you should be fine. Older mechanical diesels can “run away” which is where they keep running even with the key off and this eventually leads to the engine destroying itself.

If it’s a 6.9 idi then it’s a diesel and it’s not carbureted. The pump is still feeding the engine fuel and therefore the engine is still running. They run off compression and not a spark igniting the fuel like a gas engine. As long as it turns off when you turn the fuel pump off you should be fine. Older mechanical diesels can “run away” which is where they keep running even with the key off and this eventually leads to the engine destroying itself.

Check the manufacture date on the side of the tire. It’s located near the inner lip. You can Google a picture for reference

Check out rock auto for your spark plugs, even after shipping I saved about $20 on a set of 4 iridium ones. Most parts are alot cheaper than the part stores and as long as you know what you want and can wait up to a week, you’ll save yourself some money.

I’ve been using the cheap Pittsburgh torque wrenches, I have the 1/2" and 1/4" drive and they do the trick. If I was doing an engine rebuild I’d go for something better but they get the job done and they’re a good price.