90% of the time your battery does not have enough CCA (cold cranking amps). Assuming you are using thinner synthetic oil for the winter (0w weight) you might need a stronger battery.

https://selfsolve.apple.com/deregister-imessage/

Disable RCS with the other link and disable iMessage with this link and try again

You can add a UV dye into the coolant and it will highlight where a leak is coming from

Air and/or a leak. When I swapped to BBK it took a ton to get the air out especially if you didn’t bench bleed the calipers first. Make sure your bleeders are at the top of the caliper.

Don’t buy a Subaru if you want to avoid oil related issues

Fix the accord. Probably the brake lines rusted out at that age. You won’t find anything good for $5k. Spend the money and it will last another 5-10 yrs

Looks like 1998-2004 are still cable operated throttle. Likely the cable is stuck.

If it really is at full throttle, modern fuel injection cars have a “clear flood” mode which will close the injectors (and thus the car won’t start) when WOT (full throttle)

I notice immediately when I’m in a car with hard plastics. They reflect more and when I need to touch them they don’t feel nice.

You should be able to rent it from autozone if you’re only using one time

Why would you think it’s not the transmission/synchros? You cause premature wear to the synchros when you rest your hand on the shifter.

It’s 23 years old. Things will wear out. Usually people refer to powertrain reliability on Toyota vs things that are meant to be replaced like suspension parts.

Depends what you want them to break

Brake fluid should never leak, it’s a closed system. You need to look at the line and caliper at the wheel that has the leak.

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Any + shipping (brokerage fees are included) to Canada is going to be less than $200CAD