In all likelihood, the ‘modem’ is a router and each apartment is on a switch port routed through the ISP’s router.

A firewall-only solution will protect the devices that you have connected to the ethernet port in your apartment. Juniper, Xophos, etc.

A firewall-only solution is not typical of consumer-grade equipment. If double-NATing is not a problem, your own router is the solution.

Taping as a temporary fix will work until you can replace the cable.

I’m more concerned that it’s silver. Unless the cable is tinned or shielded, I would have expected copper-colored wires.

This spray works pretty well keeping my cats away from places that I don’t want them. This may also help.

I don’t really understand why the server can ping things on the 10 vlan and get a response but the things on 10 can’t.

This sounds like VLAN 1 is the Native VLAN, if Omada has such a thing.

A $30 surge suppressor will not prevent this from happening again. You can see the fakespot review, for what it’s worth.

Even a nearby lightning strike will overcome surge protection.

As far as I know and have seen, eliminating the path for the conducted radiation is best, if not the only, way to prevent problems in the future.

A splitter will attenuated the signal. If it doesn’t cause any issues, I would terminate the unused port with a 75 ohm terminator to limit the amount of reflected signal.

The bottom line, it will probably be OK.

I only meant you don’t need to match vendors.

Matching vendors is not necessary. I have Ruckus APs and a Cisco 3750 switch playing nicely with pfSense and multiple VLANs, both wired and wireless.

Before going down either road, check licensing for the equipment you are considering.

The long white ‘cable’ is probably a tube with either a pull string for future fiber or already has the fiber in it. What does the writing say?

A splitter will attenuate signal level to/from your modem. Typically 3-7 dB, depending on the splitter. If you do not have a need to split, the coax, use a female-to-female feed-thru connector. If the signals are already marginal, don’t use a splitter. Check the upstream signal level, before moving the modem. If it’s getting above 42-ish dB, then splitter is a bad idea. The downstream signal level should be above -5-ish dB if you will add a splitter.

I haven’t noticed the S33 getting as hot as some older modems, but I haven’t paid that much attention. If it gets hot, then keep it in the open. Personally, I like to see all of the lights/LEDs.

What is the brand/model of the gateway? Is the gateway a router, modem or both?

I didn’t see anything in the AT&T list for fiber. It looked like all cellular.

Be careful that the AT&T ‘fiber’ is fiber to the home, not fiber to somewhere near your neighborhood.

A few years ago, an AT&T salesman knocked on my door and tried to sell me fiber. There wasn’t an inch of fiber in our neighborhood. I suspect it was fiber to the DSLAM and DSL to the home. It topped out at 40 Mbps.

Spectrum was cheaper and faster for the price.

See RFC 1122, section 2.3.2.1.

Is the capture filtered or is .252 down?, since I don’t see .252 respond.

As u/michrech said, lag-free gaming is not possible. There will always be lag at some point. There are hundreds of posts in this subreddit about lag.

Your friend has the right idea, a dedicated WiFi6 AP wired to your router via a PoE switch. Place the AP in the same room that you will likely game wirelessly.

Do you already own the ASUS RT-AX86U Pro? If so, try it before you buy something else. ‘Gaming’ is mostly just marketing BS. In the consumer world ‘Pro’ doesn’t mean much, either. The ASUS RT-AX86U looks like it will route 1 Gbps.

Whichever router you pick, disable its WiFi in favor of the ‘real’ AP.

Try setting your ethernet interface to get its IP address via DHCP. Let it get the default route from the modem, then see if you can access 192.168.40.1.

I took a quick look at what happens in my router when accessing my modem. It looks like the modem intercepts its own traffic. It should have been forwarded to my default router, but the default router shouldn’t know anything about the modem. I’ll get a packet capture when I get a chance.

Modern power supplies are usually of the switching variety and are not line frequency sensitive.

If it’s an old-style analog power supply, a higher line frequency than the rating is OK. It may not be as efficient, but it will work. Using a lower line frequency than the rating will cause additional heating.

With a PC connected directly to the modem, can you access 192.168.40.1?

It does seem possible for the ISP to modify the admin IP address via the modem config file, but I have not seen it done. I also cannot come up with a way to find it (not enough coffee, yet), short of a packet capture with your PC directly attached to the modem and hoping the modem advertises its IP address once connected to the ISP.

It is possible that the UK ISP is blocking the port that you have forwarded, for some reason.

As for ping, have you allowed ping on your router, some do not answer ping on their WAN port, by default.

This ^^.

I was having similar problems with a TP-Link C9. Tested with iperf

PC->router->PC, wired

iperf indicated that the C9 topped out at 432 Mbps. Other than a static IP address on the WAN port, the C9 was in the default config.

I’m not sure where the .40. address is coming from. My Arris modem’s admin page lives at 192.168.100.1. I don’t need to do anything to my router to access it.

The router knows that it doesn’t own a 192.168.100.x subnet and forwards that traffic ‘toward’ its default router, where the modem will reply. Not all modems use the .100. subnet. Arris and Motorola do.

In a typical (Arris/Motorola) config, if you watch the ethernet traffic while the modem is coming up and the router is DHCP’ing for its WAN address, you will see the WAN get 192.168.100.xx address until the modem negotiates with the ISP. The modem will then drop and restore link to the router forcing the router to do another DHCP request. The response to this second DHCP request receives the public IP address for the router’s WAN port.

If you run wireshark on a PC connected to the modem while powered off, then power on the modem, you should see a gratuitous ARP advertising the modem’s IP and MAC addresses. This will probably be the management IP address of the modem.

It may be easier to find a sorcerer that can turn the leaden WRT32X into enough gold to buy a pfSense firewall, an ethernet switch and a WiFi6e Access Point.

While the WRT32X does look like a capable xxWRT contender, the networking gods will raise the drawbridge on low latency and high throughput while your packets venture into the dark magical VPN world.

Presuming that you are not subscribed to more than about 500 Mbps, down, a DOCSIS 3.1 modem will not improve much.

If your current modem uses the Intel Puma 5, 6 and maybe 7 chipsets, then a new non-Intel modem may make a difference. If you are not having problems, then a DOCSIS 3.1 modem will probably not improve anything.

If your provider will soon support DOCSIS 4.0, I would wait.