The rust inside is irrelevant and has no effect on anything

I don’t have one, for the reasons I gave. Adding complexity without getting any benefit from it is never a good idea. This goes for any application really.

A regular hydraulic floor jack will last you for many years without ever giving a problem. Mine gets beat to hell, left out in all weather at times, etc, and never so much as complains, and if it does it likely only needs a little top up of oil. It only takes 30 seconds to jack up the car with one, so what exactly are you saving by getting a powered one? And then when something does go wrong, other need replacing or take 10x as long to fix.

Neither. Buy a normal hydraulic floor jack and a decent set of jack stands. Unless you are jacking up 5 cars a day, having a powered jack is just a waste of money and more things that can go wrong.

What now? You will get major degradation within three months even in a sealed tank. If you’re going to store fuel for longer time, you need to use a fuel stabiliser to prevent it going stale.

If you are touching the terminal to anything with paint on it, you won’t get an accurate reading.

I think you answered your own question? You have a leak. That isn’t a master cylinder problem when the leak is at one of the wheels… Find out where the leak is and rectify.

At the end of the day, the dealer cannot tell you how many kms were under tow, and how many were driven. For the purpose of value and wear and tear, assume the odometer reading is ALL driven miles. That is your worst case scenario (which is always what you should be working off of when purchasing a car).

Here is some info on towing behind an RV from Honda

As you can see, depending on how carefully procedure was followed, this could be a ticking time bomb. Me, personally, wouldn’t go near it unless I was desperate and there was nothing else. The dealer is probably trying to charge a premium on the assumption that it is essentially lower miles than the odometer shows, because of the tow behind element (pun intended). Personally, I’d want it at a discount from market value, due to the potential for significant problems, and the fact that ALL the running gear has same or higher wear from the towing, and only the engine would have less, and Honda engines are generally pretty bulletproof.

Float style carburettors, where to begin.

The float can stick, either letting no fuel (or not enough fuel) into the bowl, or not shutting off when the bowl is full, flooding fuel into the intake ports.

The jets can be blocked, not letting the correct amount of fuel into the engine, which can cause issues running entirely, or just when under certain levels of acceleration due to inaccurate fuel mixtures.

Also, but not specifically about float style carburettors, just carburettors in general.