They’re going to have different valving. Replace both or replace this one with the same as the other side.
They’re going to have different valving. Replace both or replace this one with the same as the other side.
Press your brakes hard several times, then open the bleeder on the rear right. Some fluid may come out. If fluid sprays out, I’d suspect a hose. If it doesnt, you can most likely rule that out. Check the position of the barking brake lever on the caliper in comparison to the left side. If they’re in the same position you can rule out parking brake. If they’re in different positions, and the cable is tight, it may be the parking brake. If the cable is loose, it’s the caliper. If all those check out ok, I’d replace the caliper.
I’ve had my shop for 13 years, and I too can’t remember the last time a car came in with a stuck closed thermostat. We’ve seen many stuck open thermostats, though. Just had one last week that wouldn’t set the cat monitor due to a partially stuck open tstat.
The other thing I don’t see as often anymore is rusted out cooling systems. Mostly due to the abundance of long life HOAT coolants and the like. I’m wondering if corrosive cooling systems were the major cause of tstas sticking closed, or if modern thermostats have been designed to fail open by default similar to the old safe-t-stats, or a mix of both.
I’d stay away from anything made by Ford that has a turbo. Nothing but problems. That v6 itself is good, but the turbos don’t last. The PD one town over got rid of all their turbo explorers and switched to non turbo models due to always having them in the shop.
The transfer case tends to self destruct. It doesn’t hold much oil, and what little it does have evacuates through the vent pipe. Proper fluid checks and maintenance can keep this from happening by keeping an eye on the level, but no one ever checks their transfer case. You can also add a long hose to the vent pipe to keep it from happening.
At that mileage, it’s probably going to start leaking from the water pump soon. Expect a few thousand to change that pump out. The entire timing chain has to come off to access the pump.
Your concentration may be even higher than 65%. If they just drained the radiator, you still had the original 50/50 mix sitting in the block and heater core that didn’t drain out. I would get a refractometer and double check it. Drain a liter, fill with distilled. Recheck and adjust accordingly.