If I’m dropping the pan, I’m replacing the gasket. You’re already doing the work a 2nd time, why risk a third? Gasket shows as being between $6 and $20 depending on where you get it from. Not worth my time to risk fudging it and have to get under the car again and buy more fluid.
That being said, I can’t say for certain that I’d drop the pan just for the magnets. I might stick them to the outside of it, or get a drain plug with a magnetic tip.
In theory, the transmission (or any other component) should be at its best right after it was rebuilt. Unless they only replaced some internal parts or just did a service, this feels wrong to me.
I would recommend taking a close look at what work was performed/charged.
This is the answer OP. While you might not have a safety issue from not aligning the car, you’re likely to cause accelerated wear.
If the car doesn’t have camber/caster adjustments, the alignment is a good double-check that all the newly installed components are properly set up/manufactured/installed. Plus a “toe-and-go” alignment could be inexpensive from the right shop.
Water is better for cooling, but runs the risk of freezing depending on temperatures. This is because water is better at absorbing the heat from the hot engine components and releasing the heat into the radiator fins for faster/better cooling. Race cars generally use distilled water only and no coolant/antifreeze due to the improved cooling AND the fact that if the coolant/antifreeze gets on the racetrack it’s VERY slick.
If your environmental temperatures support the need for greater cooling without the risk of freezing, make sure you have the proper additives. There are specific concentrated fluids that will assist with lubrication of the water pump and limit corrosion.
One of the brands I’m familiar with is called “Water Wetter”. One 12oz bottle is appropriate for most normal passenger car cooling systems between 3-5 gallons.
You likely broke something in your exhaust system. You might have broken off a connection or punctured part of it.
Depending on where the puncture is it could impact your ability to pass a state safety/emissions inspection, could cause harmful gasses to accumulate under/inside the vehicle, could impact the vehicle’s performance/mileage, or could do nothing other than make annoying lawnmower sounds.
I would recommend having a trusted mechanic take a look underneath the car. It’s possible you caused other damage at the same time that just isn’t as noticeable to you and could be a future issue.
Also, stop driving over curbs. Look for a different exit or practice your breathing and counting to 10.
It’s usually pulling air from right around where the hood and windshield meet. This air is going to be a bit warmer than outside air due to heat coming from the engine compartment. It will likely be warmer if you’re not moving at freeway speed.
If it’s truly cold out, and you’re moving at a decent speed, you’ll likely get colder air more in line with the outside air temp.
Also, make sure the vents aren’t clogged with leaves/other debris as that could impact the ability to get fresh air in.
Nope. The wheel doesn’t really impact. It’s mostly cosmetic. I suppose if you’re really pushing the limits of the car you could argue the weight of a steel wheel compared to an alloy wheel has some impact. But that’s only going to apply to something like 1% of owners, if even that much.
If the car is designed for/recommends 91 octane and is not modified, use 91 octane. Presuming this is a relatively modern car:
Using a higher octane than recommended is wasteful and you won’t see any benefit as the car can’t “take advantage” of the higher fuel grade.
Using a lower octane can cause poor/reduced performance, reduced fuel mileage, and increased deposits inside the engine due to an incomplete/in burnt fuel mixture as the vehicles computer will likely sense the lower grade fuel (through knock sensors) and adjust the ignition timing to prevent major engine issues.
I’ve also personally tested the savings on a few vehicles I’ve owned that require 91. Switching to a lower grade fuel only results in a few dollars savings per tank, but also got notably reduced MPG, negating any savings. In a 20 gallon tank, you’re usually only saving $6-$10, depending on the cost difference between 87-91.
If it’s truly a full size spare that’s a regular tire, you can drive on it like a normal tire. The only urgency would be because you’re using your spare, you no longer have a spare if something happens to one of your installed tires.
If it’s not full size, the size will be different and there should be pretty prominent markings on the sidewall of the tire saying something like “For temporary use only” and may even have a max speed/distance limit on it too. Usually they’re around 55mph and 100 miles or so.
Officially, everything has a proper toque spec. But for an experienced mechanic, there are some things that “good enough” or “by feel” is fine. There are other things that should be properly torqued.
Generally the things that are ok to be “close” on are non critical things, like an interior trim cover, or maybe the antenna mount, or the plastic engine cover. But for things like suspension components, wheels (probably the most common thing you’ll see people torque to spec), cylinder heads, valve/cam/rocker covers, water pumps, and other engine components, those should all be torqued to spec.
On most of the stuff that “backyard” mechanics work on, you can generally develop a feel for what is close, but you run the risk of not having the proper tightness and causing damage. Either from being too tight and stretching/breaking the fastener, stripping the threads, rounding the head or being too loose and having things leak, rattle, or fall off.
If you don’t know, it’s better to take the extra moments to look up the spec and properly tighten it.
Oil at the proper level is better than low/no oil.
If the oil is truly pouring out, then you’ll have an issue. If it’s a standard leak, you’re probably ok. Just keep an eye on the level.
In response to your first question. Read the first line of my original response. I’ll restate it in a different way in case it wasn’t clear. If I’m loosening the bolts on the transmission pan, I’m removing them all and replacing the gasket. Saving myself a few bucks worth of gasket and fluids is not worth risking having to do it again. Best case scenario I saved $6-$20 by reusing the gasket. Not worth it to me. Do it right once (a second time) and then don’t worry about it.
If you’ve loads of time and want to risk having to be back under the car a 3rd time and having to buy a new gasket and even more fluid, be my guest.