• Useful-Internet8390@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Ohio mechanic here- rust? Where?— anyway totally normal-!its cast iron, itbgets nearly red hot then gets cold when you park it will rust 100% of the time… when the rust is flaking off itbis still ok- the wear happens in the inside with good maintenance those will last 150,000 miles or 20years

    • reklemd@alien.topB
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      10 months ago

      No. Nothing goes on mating surfaces. The friction between the wheel and the hub is what holds the load. Applying grease is a great way to put that load on the studs and snap them.

      • Alextryingforgrate@alien.topB
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        10 months ago

        Bet to not do that in case you get some of that on the wheel studs. Then the possibility of wheels coming loose and losing a tire becomes a thing. I’d rather have some thing seize together than fall off this is one of those things.

        • bog2k3@alien.topB
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          10 months ago

          Actually I put grease on the studs and the wheel mounting surface whenever I replace the wheels and they don’t come loose if torqued correctly. It really prevents binding. Been doing this for over 10 years and never had a problem

          • thnk_more@alien.topB
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            10 months ago

            Grease or oil is completely changing how the torque and that stuff works. A joint works by stretching the bolt like a rubber band and the friction under the head and between the threads keeps it from slipping.

            Greasing the threads reduces the friction which greatly magnifies the torque you can apply to the stud, which means you are stretching it much farther than designed. The lower friction in the threads also means it is easier to loosen or come off completely if it gets loose.

            Biggest danger is work hardening and snapping the studs off.

            I used to oil mine too before I learned all of this.

            • bog2k3@alien.topB
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              10 months ago

              Never had a stud come lose and never broke one by overtightening. I don’t even use a torque wrench, i just use my foot to press on the wrench until it feels tight enough, but not stuck - i guess years of experience teach you where the sweet spot is. On the contrary, i am having trouble getting the studs off after occasionally taking the car to a service and they put the wheels on with a pneumatic gun, that’s why i avoid these guys as much as possible and change my own wheels.

              I agree your theory is correct, but in practice things proved out to be easier and good enough for practical purposes.

  • texaschair@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    I wanna know what car still uses drum brakes. I thought they went the way of distributors and carburetors.

    • LongNeccHuman@alien.topB
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      10 months ago

      Nope a lot of cars still use em for back brakes since they require less maintenance and cars mostly brake from the front anyway

      • reklemd@alien.topB
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        10 months ago

        Less frequent maintenance but I’d rather do discs and pads 5 times than brake shoes once.

  • NevaMO@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Take some sandpaper and clean both faces off good then either do fluid film or anti seize!

  • walkawaysux@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Spray it with Rustoleam paint after you sand it and let it dry before putting the wheels back on

  • jaws843@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Perfectly normal. Clean it with a hub cleaning tool and put some grease on it to prevent it.

  • 2005focus@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Could also sand rust and then prime and hit with one of those high temp rattle cans as the high heat paint might survive better

  • Texasscot56@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    Clean off and put some anti seize on the face to stop your wheel getting rust stuck in future. It can be very annoying if you get a flat. Don’t put any lube or anything on your studs though.